A group of friends decided to have dinner at Il Mulino Sunday evening. Given my love affair with Italian cuisine, I was excited.
A light snow was falling as we arrived at the beautiful mansion. We were shortly seated near the fireplace. Almost immediately seemingly endless plates of antipasti were brought to the table: bruschetta, fried zucchini chips, prosciutto, breads, and parmesan wedges cut tableside from a wheel. Wine was poured.
I was still a bit full from my delicious brunch at the Publican, so I decided to order the arugula salad with lemon and shaved parmesan. It tasted like eating arugula out of a bag. Folks, fresh lemon, sea salt, and ground pepper can go a long way.
Next up was the porcini mushroom ravioli in a cream champagne sauce with black truffles. The dish was unnecessarily rich and heavy. It did not do justice to the truffles.
Seriously, I don't understand the desire to smoother truffles in cream. Let the truffle shine, even if it is not meant to be the centerpiece of the dish.
For dessert I ordered the New York cheesecake. It tasted more like wet cake than NY cheesecake. The meal concluded with grappa served tableside.
The verdict on Il Mulino: the setting was absolutely romantic, presentation was dramatic, service was attentive, but unfortunately the food was average.